NIGHT 360 PHOTOGRAPHY Tips & Tricks!


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Shooting 360 photos at night can be difficult, with exposure issues, grainy shadows and blown out highlights. In this video Peter from littleplanet.be and I teach you all of our best tricks for getting AWESOME low light 360 shots quickly and easily! To learn more cool 360 techniques, be sure to check out my 360 video course!:

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ALL THE STUFF FROM THIS VIDEO:

My gear:
► Theta V:
► Joby Micro tripod:
► My monopod:

Peter’s gear:
► Pentax K-1 Mark II:
► Pentax 10-17mm F/3.5-4.5:
► Nodal Ninja Pole 2:
► Nodal Ninja Advanced Rotator D10: :

Antwerp Train Station free of people:

Grand Place (the photo i tried to photobomb):

All the photos from this video in high-res:

In this video we share our best tips and tricks for shooting awesome 360 photography at night time- whether it be using HDR to increase dynamic range, RAW or bracketing for high resolution DSLR panoramas, long exposures or light paintings, each situation usually requires a different approach. Be sure to check if your 360 camera has manual mode before attempting any exposures longer than the standard ‘auto’ shutter speeds aka 1/25 as these effects won’t be possible in auto exposure mode.

► My 2019 KIT for 360 Photography & Video:
Main 360 camera:
Micro tripod:
360 Camera Monopod:
SD card:
Cheap selfie stick:
Camera bag:
Waterproof 360 camera:
My phone:
My iMac:
(with this RAM):
Best good quality VR headset:

If you enjoyed this video, be sure to leave a like and subscribe to the channel! The Ben Claremont channel is your go-to authority on all things 360 photography, video, and beyond! From in-depth tutorials and tips, to the best equipment, editing software, apps, and even social media strategies for gaining massive attention to your work. On this channel you’ll find everything you need to truly live and breathe 360!

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#littleplanet
#360camera

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this is fen and Peter and today we're in Brussels and this video is going to be about low-light photography in 360 oh yeah when you're exposing your images with a 360 camera it's not really that different than if you're exposing with a DSLR no it isn't the only issue is time probably because you will have to take a lot more time to make that correct exposure yes exactly this is where you'll have to go into manual mode of your 360 camera and take control parameters like your shutter speed is the biggest one as well as is our most 360 cameras have the basic ability to go into manual mode and change these two things you can't yet change aperture with 360 cameras now however Peter can with his DSLR so I'm going to be shooting with point-and-shoot 360 cameras Peter will be shooting with his high-end DSLR 360 rig the most basic way to shoot a 360 photo at nighttime is in Auto exposure mode where you just turn the camera on I've activated the self timer here I'm gonna put it down on the ground press the button and pose this is a really basic way of doing it but because we have such mixed lighting in this environment it's not going to give us perfect exposure because the camera is essentially guessing how to expose this image I've got to say this photo actually looks really good I would be happy publishing this on Instagram straight away but you know what I think I can get it even better the issue I'm having here is in the highlights while it did expose the shadows really nicely the highlights are overblown in a lot of the image especially where we have bright lights around this environment which is why I'm going to go into HDR mode so I can really expose those lights perfectly so they're not going to create big spotlights in my image they're going to blend in and create more of a harmonious beautiful image wow there's a whole lot better you can see the bright lights behind me and all around me you can see them as circles now it's not just a blinding flash light all around so HDR mode gave me an excellent exposure in this mixed lighting situation a lot of 360 cameras have HDR mode however if yours doesn't you may want to try shooting manually and blending different exposures together in a HDR software for computer when shooting HDR it's always a good idea to use a tripod especially at night time because it's going to automatically do say a one or two second exposure and if the camera moves even this much it's going to completely blow the image and ruin your father whatever Ben was doing I will try to replicate and do it at a much higher resolution and for that we need a DSLR camera at the SLR camera is a little bit more complicated to shoot 360 Suites if you want to expose this environment and I'll put the camera in manual mode and I'll measure the light first and whatever the numbers will be my ISO my aperture and my shutter speed I will fix them I always shoot RAW there were no JPEG for me it's raw and the advantage of raw instead of JPEG is that you have much more control about the final quality of your image there's much more things that you can do like correct shadows or highlights or whatever so what I'm doing right now is measuring the light and the Pentax is actually a very good one for that I put it ISO 800 this is fixed and when I measure to right currently that I see that the camera will need 1.3 seconds as a shutter speed so when I put in HDR mode I put it also in bracketing mode that means that I will take a picture at minus 2 0 + + 2 e V I can combine those images by merging them in Photoshop or Lightroom or any other software that can handle that and then you have a perfect exposed image many takes a bit longer than with a regular point-and-shoot camera of course a bit longer just a bit how much is this bit how many days I'm not going to say days if you take an image in once in one second and you edit it in a tiny planet and and etc yeah yeah you could take it image in one minutes it takes at least an hour for me but the quality is completely different of course all right to make it really special yeah I'm going to use my magic pole and put it six meters up in the air again but because it's low light there's something special going on today it's these wires they call it guy wires and what it does is it stabilizes the pole at the top if you don't do that with low lights the pop the the pole sorry will always swing from left to right because there's wind or there's anything going on here and this will prevent that it will stabilize the pole so feast your eyes on brightness coming right now there's a huge difference between a two second shutter speed that you need at low light conditions right now or if you do it during daylight then maybe one thousandth of a second and that's enough so even if the camera is moving then it doesn't matter because I don't know how long the exposure will take well I do know because I said it manually but I don't count it I touch the pole and I can feel on the vibration say this sound funny you can feel actually the the mirror clicking up and down and then I know when it's when it's ready you feel a vibration on your pole yeah I know that feeling Peter it sounds super I was having a chat with Peter on Facebook the other day and he showed me one of the photos he took at nighttime inside a train station and it was completely empty and then Peter told me you know what there were actually hundreds of people in this train station and I use a little magic trick I made them disappear so Peter how did you achieve this magic trick now I need to explain my trick was pretty simple actually when people are moving and passing your Lance then with the long exposure they magically disappeared so the longer the exposure the less people you will see in the image and it's the trick that I used and that I will try to do over again here in Brussels to illustrate this point I'm going to photobomb Peters photo I'm going to run around like I've escaped from a mental asylum and you will see me disappear yeah we got it want to see it now that's genius at work alright we are done at that location on to the next one yes I've got something special for you yeah where we going yeah we're going to the most famous statue of Belgium yeah it sounds big and okay all right I can't wait this ok tiny plan guy what do you think I think you're on your own all right let's do this the next cool trick I'm going to show you how to do is called a light painting and this is where we put our camera into manual mode and we use a handy flashlight and we paint pictures in the sky to do this you'll need a 360 camera with manual exposure where you're able to change the shutter speed of your camera it's a really simple idea as we did before we're going to need to slow shutter speed to do a light painting I think you need a minimum of about five seconds ideally about ten so you have enough time to run around with your flashlight our flashlight is like our paintbrush we can paint anything we want in the sky we can do a pretty pattern you could do a Thunderbolt if you wanted or you can write something I don't think I've ever gotten a light painting right on the first attempt so you will need a lot of patience to do this effect so I've gone into manual mode right here and it's always a good idea to keep your ISO as low as possible this will avoid your image being too noisy in the darker areas and with our shutter speed you want to change it to five seconds plus I'm going to do a test shot right now at five seconds and see what the exposure looks like if everything is exposed pretty well I know that I've chosen the right settings to do my light painting so let's give it a go so looking at that it seems a tiny bit overexposed you do want to shoot in a relatively dark environment if you want to make the most out of your light painting because it means you can leave your shutter open for longer therefore you have more time to paint your picture so I'm going to go down to a four second explosion now and this with my first attempt at painting in the air I'm also gonna activate the self timer because this is going to give me time to put my phone down out of shot so I can get in position to start the first bit of the painting I'm gonna try riding 360 it actually turned out okay I don't mind the exposure there or my handwriting clearly needs work so I'm going to try that again but I'm going to keep my numbers smaller and I'm going to write a bit higher in the air so the light from the torch conflicts a bit less with my archway here three two one Oh getting there getting it that looks really good so I'll try that one more time except this time I'm going to angle the flashlight down so the camera has a better view of the light it's essentially like doing this at the moment it's seeing this sometimes it can be a little hard to get your threes and sixes the right way around you have to write everything in Reverse yeah that's not bad my three is a little bit small but I think this turned out well enough for you to get an idea of what you can do with this kind of effect this is now where you might want to get creative and try all kinds of cool patterns in the sky so I'm gonna do it and I want to wave this thing around like crazy and just see what happened and there it is not very artistic but it's given me some ideas for some cool things I can do okay there we go we have a goalpost that turned out pretty cool the key for light paintings is doing longer exposures than four seconds and oh just the person to do that Peter what are we doing now well we're going to do also a little bit of light painting but from a higher distance okay the DSLR is set up it's up there we're going to do an 8 second exposure and then is doing the painting with light go for it photo bomber photo bomber we're going to do a crazy light painting I've been going to turn Ben into an angel just in case he wasn't one already to hear good well Peter it's been fun what can they find you if they can still find me on little plantain w/e you can also find him here and find me here until next time keep capturing your world in 360 get out there shoot some light paintings shoot some lie expose at nighttime because there's a whole new world of opportunity for your 360 photos and tiny planets and we will see you in the next video many

23 thoughts on “NIGHT 360 PHOTOGRAPHY Tips & Tricks!”

  1. Hi Ben, I really love your videos, your videos have been really helpful in deciding my first 360 camera purchase. I bought the Insta360 One X. I was curious about the connectivity…and you are the right person to ask. Can you tell me if I can use a regular USB cable with attachments to connect to my One X to Android? I tried one method but the camera mounted on my google pixel 2 xl as a USB storage instead of opening in the app. Thank you.

  2. I loved all of this, particularly the crispness of Peter's shots. That's the DSLR for you.

    Man this makes me so grumpy about the Theta app refusing to connect to my Theta V.

  3. Hello Ben i need your opinion please,,ok.. I have this Samsung Gear360 (2017) with me and i been using it for quiet awhile..So now i bee wanted to buy an INSTA360 NANO S…so my question is should i stay with the Samsung Gear360 2017 or go ahead and buy a INSTA360 NANO S. ! which one is better….(Im tight on budget thats why i cant get the higher Insta360),,,thank you.

  4. Excellent video as always. Have you ever found any problems setting up in public spaces for security concerns? I have tried to take photos in the past outside some buildings and I was approached by security in the UK because the places were potential terrorist targets.

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