Anet E10 3D printer full review!


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hey guys welcome to my channel in this video we're gonna do the unboxing build test and the review of the a nut eaten so stay tuned first part of the video is the unboxing so let's open the box and see what we have inside my first thought when I saw this printer was he this looks very much like CR 10 only smaller it's even the pack in a similar way and since I have the seer tell I'm very interesting to see how this printer will compare to the seer 10 says it has much lower price and when you take out everything from the box this is what you're gonna find inside this printer is around 80 percent preassembled on the right side you're gonna see the control box which contained the power supply motherboard LC panel and cables all the cables are pre attached but you don't need to install the here and X carriage cover holding with two screws next you're gonna get the 3d printing surface micro SD card with USB reader USB cable zip type Stefan tube power cord cable removal tool and 20 meters of free filament and now it's time for assembly but before that let's take a look on the micro SD card which contains the instruction manual this one right here in the micro SD card you're going to find video assembly guide installation guide troubleshooting slicing software cura and repeater host how to set them configuration files there is some STL 3d models 3d parts for printer in self-test g-codes assembly parts list and there is a print quality troubleshooting guide which explains how to understand 3d printing and get better quality from your printer alright let's build it this 3d printer has some 3d printed parts and not metal or molded parts which I usually expect to find those parts are filming holder brackets for a rod on ixs brackets for a treadle rods on z axes and end caps are 3d printed but the good thing is that for all these 3d printed parts there is STL files on micro SD cards so you can print them yourself again if ever needed or you can also choose different color if you like first part of assembly was without problem but I know this right away some issue with his build the Z stepper motors are mounted in such a way that heated bed collide with the stepper connectors and even in a manual is the same strange so I just unscrew these two screws and rotate stepper by 90 degrees and that solved this issue this is how the Z steppers should be installed in the first place so when you move the heat bed nothing will collide to each other so a not please change this in a manual thank you one comment of movement of I access or heated bed is that for moving of heated bed on e 10 a nut are using the smooth roads with linear bearings and on the sea air tank reality are using the bearings wheels and V slots extrusions which are much smoother and quieter next I notice that all these aluminum rail extrusions on e 10 are T slots and not V slots like on the CR 10 but they are using the right wheel for them we will see how will that affect on a long-term usage but since these wheels are very cheap I wouldn't worry about that on e 10 calibration wheels on T slots have plastic stands off compared to metal one on the CR 10 and for adjusting of pressure on T slots you have to press the wheel in the same time and screw it down which I found Libba tricky nuts which holding this calibration wheels are too small and they are not holding edges so well this issue is resolved by installing one small washer on all three adjusting wheels so a nut please add the three small washer in a manual thank you on other hand other than that I didn't have any more issues with assembly this printer for assembling this printer it took me around one hour and in fact assembly was much easier compared to a not a six or eight and the last piece of the puzzle is this 3d printing surface and it's done and this is how the printer look when is fully assembled and now let's run some specs 8 @e 10 has metal frame made from linear aluminum rails with three slots bill volume is two twenty by two seventy by three hundred millimeters it has the dual fan one for cooling down the hot end and one for cooling the filament it has the bottom set up with metal extruder there is a bell tighter on heated bed which is nice option since the belts are rubber plastic type like on annotate x and z carriage are on roller wheels and i access are using the linear bearings it uses dual z-axis lead screw which should be more stable than the printers which has only one but we're gonna test that the control box has big graphic LCD nice knob for navigate to the software and reset button on the left side of control box is a switch for voltage there is a place for micro SD card for offline printing and the USB port this is a back of the printer and how that I solve adjusting issue later on with adding only one small washer and the nut for all three adjusting roller wheels now it's much better and more precise and I add the small piece of teflon tube to make the small purse for the filament this is how their I secure the cables with cable ties to make secure connection and to relieve stress if I move printer around this is a belt adjuster for heated bed and 3d printed base for eye access heated bed is mounted very similar like on annotate and now it's time for test prints like always my first test print is 20 millimeters hollow cube with 0.8 millimeters walls for 0.4 millimetre nozzle before this print I recheck every screw I tight wrap the belts and I level the heat bed and the printing now is complete not bad for the first test print the cube are looking good so we can continue flex print is this face I scaled down this ways to 50% skill just to quick test the precision of z-axis I like to print ways in a spiral mode in Acura which print and tire model only in one pass and it's very fast any imperfection in the excess will show here and it will be very visible so far so good the vase looking nice and now let's print the six angle ways nice again very nice results on every side this race looks very good there is no gaps between the layers angles are straight and otherwise this orange PLA looks very cool and now let's print the 3d bench and I print it and I print it again and again and again and again I have the whole fleet the reason why I print 3d Banerjee five times is to show you most horror attraction speed from 10 till 50 millimeters is effect on the playing quality during these test prints I realize also one more tink da Qian also is very small and I found that using 90 percent or even 80 percent fan speed actually blowing more air through the nozzle than on hunger percent fan speed and that's because the fan blows more air than the air nozzle can handle it which actually create a back pressure inside a fan and blocks air making prints looks worse this issue can be solved by installing the new duct nozzle or using the lower fan speed a little bit of cleaning and this really Benjy it looks very impressive I'm sure if I use here even more retraction speed that I can get even better results but still it is pretty impressive print I would say almost perfect and now it's time to print something big and something large so I scale up this ways to the maximum I slice it with the latest version of the cura and I start to print printing to almost 8 hours to complete but after that I was very happy with the results these face look amazing the quality of these layers are great really awesome results there is no separation between the layers they are looking perfect our next print is going to be the low poly fox and again these low poly fox are looking great and I know what you're thinking how did I print this so nice well let me tell you that this almost perfect print are not without the consequences this what happened yeah that goes my bill tak away damn it yep nothing like good old blue tape and for the final print I decided to do the speed test and to print my favorite mobile phone stand I increase the speed to 100 millimeters a second and we will see how this printer would handle it and it's over after 37 minutes of printing printer is done and I already see that is looking great very successful print nice very very nice I switch the camera to close autofocus mode to show you guys these layers look at his layers they are perfect and the surface is smooth awesome very happy with these results come on focus right here great and the last test is heat up time the maximum temperature that I could achieve was 92 degrees on the printer without any heat bed insulation material and now the final thoughts well guys I think the e10 is not bad at all other than a few minor issues that are easily solved I didn't have any other problems with this printer I think the e10 has a pretty good potential and with a few upgrades can be pretty decent 3d printer print quality on other hand is a very good and I was able to get some quality prints now the interns should not be compared with the seer 10 even if it's look very similar seer 10 is a better and much bigger 3d printer but is also much more expensive so if you're looking for the law of cost 3d printer with a big build volume and you don't want to spend extra money on the seer 10 then it and can be your choice alright guys that was my review of the a not Eterne if you liked this video give it a thumbs up and subscribe and if some of you guys wanna check out this printer have a look in the links in a video description til next time take care and good luck with your printing bye bye

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